A Visit to Fuji-Hakone Guest House and Onsen

Several years ago, I lived in Tokyo and worked for a Japanese company. My job required speaking and listening to Japanese Monday through Friday for ten hours a day and sometimes longer. It was challenging every day and the best job I've ever had. Outside of work, free time was spent going to city events, shopping, or dining with Japanese friends. We would speak a blend of English and Japanese and I enjoyed every minute.

Sometimes, though, I needed a mental break, a brief, English-only oasis. Those were the times to reach out to my Western friends in FEW, or Foreign Executive Women. FEW gave me the opportunity to interact with people from around the world who were like me, a Westerner living in Japan. Each month about 30 or 40 members met in Yurakucho to munch on appetizers, listen to a guest speaker, and network with other members and guests. We spoke English for three marvelous hours! I liked FEW so much I became a board member and got involved in planning several official group activities for the membership.

Once seven of us decided to clear our schedules and take part in an unofficial activity not planned by FEW but rather by ourselves, a few good international friends. Our idea was to go on a weekend trip to a hot spring (温泉, onsen) in Hakone (箱根), southwest of Tokyo, at the foot of Mt. Fuji.We knew Japanese people really liked taking short trips to a hot spring town (温泉町, onsen machi); we wanted to try it. Interested in keeping our expenses down, we made a list of what was important to us.

Our group’s criteria:

-- Place that would be an easy commute to / from Tokyo (couple of hours)

-- Two-night basic accommodation, luxury rooms not necessary

-- Inside, smaller hot spring acceptable

-- No fancy meals purchased at the accommodation

-- Meeting or break room that we could use for relaxing and talking together

-- Walking paths and mountain trails for taking a hike or nature walk

-- No interest in arcades, karaoke, bowling, or other typical amusements

-- English not necessary; some of us spoke Japanese

-- Quiet place, no crowds, with a "retreat" type of atmosphere

-- Train access not necessary; we had cars for transportation

It was worth it to do research online before making a reservation. We compared lots of accommodation options, and found several that met our criteria and budget. We decided to book a no-frills standard Japanese inn (旅館, ryokan) in Hakone called Fuji-Hakone Guest House. This place was perfect for our getaway.

We took two cars to travel to the inn, located in the resort town of Sengokuhara, in Hakone National Park.Arriving right around dinner time, we checked in, then walked along the main street into town and ate at a small restaurant. Returning to the inn, we took a look around. Accommodations were traditional tatami style rooms with no private bathroom. For the record, that's not typical for most Japanese inns and hotels. Guests do get their own bathroom! But this layout was similar to a college dormitory. We had to walk down the hall to access a communal bathroom. We located the break room, then the hot spring and bathing area. This inn offered indoor hot springs for women and for men (separate gender only), open 24 hours a day, and I believe some outdoor hot springs too.

The next morning we walked down the street to a café / bakery for breakfast. Then we set out hiking on trails and exploring the national park. We picked another casual place for lunch, then strolled around town. The time of year was early fall. The air was warm but less humid; the air was clean and crisp. We took in the natural beauty of Hakone, and even explored several other properties clustered around the vicinity, in case a return trip was needed.

By late afternoon, it was time for the hot spring. Of the seven of us, two women were from Germany (they both spoke great English, and one was fluent in Japanese too), one was from France, three of us were from America, and one was from Canada. Only three headed to the baths--myself, one of the Germans and the Frenchwoman. The others said they didn’t have an interest to go, and opted to do something else instead. I was a little surprised at the time, but later realized that an interest in this kind of thing partly depends on cultural background.

In some cultures bathing (or swimming) in the nude around others is a no big deal and a part of life; in others, it's not a usual practice, so most will be too self-conscious to try it. Americans pretty much fall in the second group. I never did such a thing before, well not since age 3 or 4, when I splashed with siblings in a bathtub at home. We needed and got our bathing “privacy” by age 5! I would estimate that a large percentage of my American friends would be hesitant to enter a hot spring or public bath on their own, for these reasons: 1) due to shyness or modesty, 2) an idea it's strange to do this, 3) the language barrier and 4) not knowing what to do in such a place. (I know well—such an American used to be me) But! I also know many Americans are adventurous and like to take a risk. I’m certain some American people would go and try out a hot spring experience—and love it—especially if someone showed them what to do.

The three of us who entered the hot spring didn’t know what to do either, but we were fearless! We watched what other bathers were doing and did the same. (Put all stuff including clothes in a locker, enter the facility, take a sitting shower, wash and rinse off, then ease into the bath and soak away in steamy hot spring water up to your chin!) The mineral water was fantastic. I didn’t tell anyone until later, but for a minute after exiting I was so dizzy I almost fainted. My face was bright red! In the changing room I slipped back into a cool cotton t shirt and jeans and began to feel much better, amazing in fact!

As we joined our group and headed out for a beer, then dinner, I felt relaxed and quite rejuvenated. That natural high lasted right into Sunday as we returned to the city. Hot springs may not be for everyone, but for me they go far beyond a basic bath or jacuzzi experience. It may be the highest benefit comes from the whole ritual of going to a hot spring. Whether going as a couple, with some friends, or as part a large group - it's all about slowing down, cleaning up, eating well, and recharging as a individual - with others. For more information about this property or about the inns and hot springs in the Hakone area, click here.

See Related Post: Rating and Review: Fuji-Hakone Guest House, Hakone, Japan